May 28, 2022
Pulled anchor from St. Pierre at 05:45 and headed for Guadaloupe, the second north of Martinique. We had heard from other cruisers and readings on the sail nets the a wonderful set of small islands lay just south of the large Guadaluope mass called, Les Saintes. The inhabited of these were Terre de Bas and Terre de Haut. We set our sights on an small village in the south of Terre de Haut, called XX. It was a ten hour sail so we had left early to avoid a nightime arrival. The water was deep blue as we pulled past the last of Martinique with jig and jigger rig meeting a easterly breeze on the beam. We were still getting the feel for Galini and her wants, as this would be the longest sail yet. We opted for both headsails and mizzen, leaving the main furled for the ride. Galini seems to love this sail set, reaching: she cuts through the water with power and grace. We easily made 8 – 9 nights with this set up in 20 knts of wind, sometimes exceeding 10 knts, which is hull speed for the Amel 54. The sky was bright, with some scattered cumulus to share the day.
During the run, we had a couple of small whale visiters close on our starboard, They were pilot whales we think, as we only witnessed their dorsal surface between the blow hole and dorsal fin. Several puffs from the blow hole and the pair were gone.
We reached the southern shores of the Les Saintes at around 1500 and motored into the protected harbor. There was a southerly swell but we anchored at the end of the bay, away from the other boats for solitude. We raised the Q flag along France courtesy flag, and the halyard promptly parted, so we swithed to the port flag line. Next morning, a dingy ride into XX to clear customs, find the Patisserie, and explore the town. Beautiful and quaint. A friendly village with a massive fort built by the French in the height of Napoleans reign placed on top of the peak above. Ken and I walked the road to the fort, and marveled at the massive stone complex, complete with mote, and the work it took to construct. Sandra joined us later and we had a lovely lunch with poisson empendas and frites. Our servers was a delight. A strong woman of around 50 or so years who was sporting a black leather miniskirt, black sandals, and a red low cut top with short cropped sleaves that revealed a large lizard tatoo on her right trapezius. She had three ear rings to starboard and one to port, all different metals and colors. Her smile accented her light blue eyes that stressed a few small wrinkles in the corners which spoke of experience in life that I could only wonder about. As I was leaving, we looked at each other and neither retracted our gaze knowing that circumstance was like a line in the sand never to be crossed.
Back aboard Galini, Sandra was hoisted up the mast to repair the flag halyard, Ken performed some dingy engine maintenance, and I worked on a leak we had discovered in the stern lazerette. Dinner aboard, the beauty of the sunset from the cockpit, and off to sleep.
Next morning, April 29, I take the dingy back into town for chocolate pain from the patisserie to share aboard and we leave a northern town spot along the western coast of Guadaloupe called Deshaines. About four nm south of that harbor lies a marine park discovered and designated to Jacques Cousteau. We anchored close to shore and took the dingy to the marine park for some fantastic snorkeling. Various lines of tubular, brain, and barrel coral abounded. Multitudes of reef fish and clear water. A must for anyone in the area.
We returned to the boat and sailed on to Deshaines, about 8nm further along the coast. A small village in a small inlet, with a quay protected fishing port too shallow for Galini. Here was my first major lesson in setting the anchor. We tried in the north edge of the harbor, amongst a flurry of boats. A great spot I found, but alas the anchor did not hold when set. Tried again: then wind backed nearly 180 degrees during the process and the rain came down. Sandra, a stoic figure on the bow was patiently directing as I tried to set the anchor during the wind change with boats going in all directions. It was a mess. I gave up in this spot and moved across the bay to another open area next to an older Amel Santorin. This time success as the rain ended.
Dingy to town to clear customs for departure in the morning. Picked up our last chocolate croissants and pain. Left in the morning for our longest passage yet: St Croix.
